Tips on setting up your own derby car (for amateurs)
Rules: Get a copy of the rules! There can be a wide variance from region to region. The tips which I will be listing are legal where I run, but they may not be legal in your area. Your local rules will probably allow much more modification to the body and frame than mine do. These tips worked well on my late 70's Fords.
Sponsors: If you want to have a good
looking and well prepared car you need sponsors (demo derby can be
expensive). I
always try to have the best looking car, it makes your sponsors happy and
intimidates the other drivers. I would like to thank my 2001 sponsors Mackenzie's
Towing, Truro Mall, and Caldwell Auto Body.
Glass: All glass must be removed. The door glass can sometimes be removed by simply removing a couple of bolts, or you may have to drill out the factory rivets to remove it. If this is too much work, a large hammer will do the trick. Just make sure all of the broken glass is vacuumed out. The windshield is a little tougher, an easy and cheap way to do this is with a utility knife and WD-40. Spray the rubber with the WD-40 and cut around the window. It works best when you cut the window out from the inside. A piece of piano wire will also work well. Which ever technique you use make sure you cut around the window a couple of times before trying to remove it. This job is a lot easier if you have a friend to help.
All Trim And Sun Visors Must Be Removed: If you have a lot of time you can remove it with a trim removal tool or a screwdriver, otherwise get out the hammer and claw bar.
Radiator And Cooling: Radiator must remain in its stock location or be removed. Loosen off the factory mounting brackets, use seatbelts to secure the radiator in. This will allow some movement so the radiator won't get busted as easily. Remove the thermostat. Remove the spacer between the fan and water pump, replace it with a shorter one, or short bolts with washers.
Fuel System: Gas tank must be removed from its stock location. I like to mount it inside the car above the rear end. Another good place is behind the passenger seat. I use plumbing straps and threaded rod to secure the tank. The gas tank must be covered with a nonflammable material, the old insulation from under your hood will suffice. In my cars I have reconnected the fuel tank to the factory fuel lines and have not had a problem. Most guys like to run the fuel line through the center of the vehicle. Wrap the fuel line with old garden hose anywhere it passes through sheet metal.
Battery & Ignition: I relocate the battery to the passenger side floor pan. The battery must be covered, sheet metal is not advisable, use a material that does not conduct electricity (plastic or wood). I also use a dual solenoid set-up, I run one off the factory switch and a back-up on a toggle switch. Protect your wires with old water hose anywhere they pass through sheet metal. Move the ignition box to the firewall, not doing this took me out of my first derby!
Welding: Weld anything that your rules allow! In my area the doors may be welded shut and the drivers door may be reinforced with grader blade, checker plate etc. The more you weld the tougher your car will be!
Hood & trunk: Hood and trunk (tailgate) may be fastened
with chain, not larger than 1/4". Cut a 24" diameter hole in
your hood
around the carburetor, and a 18" inspection hole in your trunk lid. If you
have access to an air chisel it works great for this otherwise a jigsaw will do.
Try not to cut the frame under the sheet metal this will preserve some of the
structural integrity of the body parts.
Trailer hitches: All trailer hitches must be completely removed. Use a cutting torch if you have access to one.
Driver safety: Cut a piece out of your old rear seat and secure it to the inside of the drivers door. Also attach a piece to the dash below the steering column, my knees got banged around a lot in my first derby's. If your rules allow install a harness and aftermarket seat (mine don't). A steel screen on the drivers side windshield is also a good idea.
Tires: My rules don't allow any tire modifications. If you can find a good set of snow tires that have been on their rims for a while, use them. They will be seated tightly to the rims and will be hard for your competitors to "break down". I put extra air in the tires too, about 40 psi. I have also heard of guys using liquid nails on the tire bead.